Alaska State Parks Blog Post Archive
Here you can find all of the past blog articles. Click on the title to expand the article.
2020
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The Beluga Cabin - Kate Ayers
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We had just finished our icy drive to the trailhead. It was pitch dark, nine degrees outside, and our sled was filled with gear; including wood, water, and equipment. Using our headlamps, we placed our four and one-year-old on top of the gear and instructed them to "Hang On!" Given the circumstances, the very short trail to the Beluga public use cabin was perfect.
Beluga cabin is within the Bird Campground at Mile 101 of the Seward Highway. In the summer we had passed the active campground while biking on the Indian to Girdwood National Recreation Trail, also known as the "Bird to Gird" trail. Our December visit proved to be much quieter as we explored the nearly vacant campground. The cabin can sleep up to 8 people, has two entrances, and a lovely loft that gets too hot with a nice fire.
Although we love our summer cabin explorations, we like our winter ones just as much. During summer, we explore outside for hours, go to bed too late, and pack an ample amount of bug spray. During winter, we explore outside to the extent our children and cold feet can stand it, go to bed early, and leave the bug spray at home.
Before you leave
We are not novices at staying in public use cabins, and although I'd like to say we can pack with our eyes closed, it's just not the case. Each cabin is unique and needs to be planned for separately, especially in the winter months. Read the cabin details very carefully. Take note of the fuel type listed. Bring more wood, or required heating fuel, than you think you need. Look at a map of the cabin and identify what is around the surrounding area. It also doesn't hurt to pinpoint the trail and where you'll be parking. Lastly, print and take a copy of the cabin details with you. After your journey to the cabin, the last thing you want is to be standing outside in the cold trying to remember the access key code that was provided, yet forgotten at home.
It's going to be dark
Our trip in early-December provided us daylight from 10:00 am to 3:45 pm. This gave us approximately six hours of awake time without daylight. Which in our case, ultimately lead to more time inside the cabin. This leads to needing more fuel to keep warm, more fuel to keep the cabin lit (batteries or gas for lanterns), and more creative activities to stay entertained inside. Of course, the other option was to strap on a headlamp and explore outside in the dark– definitely a possibility, just not for us. Bring your books, puzzles, and creative thinking caps if you expect to stay indoors while it is dark.
Get outside
As twilight approached, we noticed there was a fresh snowfall! We all raced to get our layers on and get outside. We got bundled up and went exploring around the cabin, cross country skied the "Bird to Gird" trail, pulled the kids in the sled, and collected downed tree branches for the fire. The bitter cold, kiss of sun, and movement of our bodies were invigorating after sitting in the dark, yet cozy, cabin. Get outside, even if it's only for 15 minutes.
About the Author: Kate Ayers, is a busy woman with a family and a working professional in Anchorage Alaska. She has been a resident in Anchorage for the last ten years, and has enthusiastically embraced the Alaskan adventure lifestyle. Kate has hiked, biked, skied, canoed, kayaked and water-taxied to more than 35 distinct Alaska Public Use Cabins. She developed her love of the great outdoors at a young age, while growing up in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. Now she aims to introduce her children to the same adventures, beauty, and appreciation for the awe-inspiring Alaskan outdoors.
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BOOK AN ALASKA PUBLIC USE CABIN
for your next family adventure! - Kate Ayers
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I was feeling pretty good about myself because I have been to a few more Alaska Public Use Cabins (PUCs) than my years on this earth, but then I realized my four-year-old has already been to 20, and my one-year-old has been to twelve. Now, I'm just jealous of their public use cabin-to-age ratio and I need to catch up!
I was first drawn to PUCs mostly because of my fear of bears. I loved to backpack and tent camp in the lower 48, but the thought of an Alaskan grizzly nuzzling next to me as I slept wasn't very comforting. I had been exposed to public use cabins growing up in Idaho and stayed in a few fire towers in Oregon during my college days. Little did I know how expansive the public use cabin network was in Alaska. When we first started exploring cabins, I thought little of backpacking seven-plus miles into a location. Now, with two kids in tow, our adventures have changed slightly; but nonetheless continue.
Have you been considering booking your family's first Alaska PUC but don't know where to start? Below are a few great beginner cabins to try; listed from super easy to easy:- Rhein Lake Cabin – If you want to test out a cabin for a night or two, this is the one to book. It's a beautiful drive up to the cabin's front door. It overlooks Rhein Lake and there is a short trail to and around the lake. The loft will entertain kids of all ages and you'll appreciate the privacy it offers.
- Nancy Lake #2 Cabin - This PUC is approximately a 1/3 mile trek. It's easiest with backpacking, wagon pulling, or pushing your gear in a wheelbarrow. Depending on weather conditions, you will be on a dirt or muddy trail. It's a great cabin to gauge your packing ability and your family's comfort with hiking into a location.
- Rainbow Trout Cabin – Although this cabin is less than a mile from the parking lot, it gives you a sense of seclusion upon arrival. You'll benefit from packing efficiently and bringing in your gear with one trip. The trail is wide and is a great cabin to book if you are considering using a bike trailer to transport your gear or kids.
Although traveling with children sometimes seems daunting, it doesn't have to be if you approach it with the right mindset and tools. If you are driving up to a cabin or backpacking into one, here are a few tips to keep the stress low and the fun level high.
Get them packing – Engage your child in the packing process by asking them to choose their favorite toys to bring with them on a grand adventure. We have a designated backpack for cabin trips that our daughter fills to the brim when we are getting ready. As she has gotten older, we've replaced a few toys with extra clothes, her snacks, and a water bottle.
Tortoise trekking– Prepare yourself to embrace child-pace exploration. Stopping to smell the flowers, selecting the perfect stick, or collecting all the grey rocks with white specks is all part of the journey. If you're backpacking in or just going on a day hike, plan for the exploration, tantrum, and break time. As long as you're moving forward, you'll get there.
Enjoy the "present" –Adventures in Alaska may come with the sun, but more often than not comes with rain, mosquitos, cold and overcast days, which means that you may be spending more time in the cabin than you anticipated. With this in mind, bring a few "presents" (new toys and games) to keep the cabin fever at bay. New entertainment keeps their attention longer than familiar ones.
Night…Night– Reserve two nights rather than one. Sleeping in a foreign place, without blackout blinds and the comfort of their bed will be hard, but if you make it to night two, it will be easier than the first. We never leave without our battery-powered sound maker. The familiar white noise helps them sleep, and drowns out other noises they may not be used to. We also create a dark sleeping space for them to sleep by hanging extra blankets and fabrics to shield the midnight sun.
"Into the unknown…" – As a Type A planner, leaving it to the unknown is hard for me. I can plan the entire trip to the minute, but plans will be rearranged, readjusted, or thrown out the cabin window. I have learned through experience, it's best to bring a stress-free attitude and be willing to be creative, spontaneous, and ready for the unknown.
Keep in mind, these tips are from my experiences with children younger than the age of 5, and they might not apply to every family. You are the expert of your family and at the end of the day, listen and follow your instincts on what works best for your family and your situation.
Lastly, don't forget to travel safely. Be prepared for bears (bear spray), summer heat and winter snow (layered wardrobe), bug deterrent (bug repellant and anti-itch cream), cuts and bruises (first aid kit), and a communication plan (from telling others what time you expect to return home to a bringing satellite phone).
Be safe, have fun, and enjoy Alaska Public Use Cabins.
About the Author: Kate Ayers, is a busy woman with a family and a working professional in Anchorage Alaska. She has been a resident in Anchorage for the last ten years, and has enthusiastically embraced the Alaskan adventure lifestyle. Kate has hiked, biked, skied, canoed, kayaked and water-taxied to more than 35 distinct Alaska Public Use Cabins. She developed her love of the great outdoors at a young age, while growing up in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. Now she aims to introduce her children to the same adventures, beauty, and appreciation for the awe-inspiring Alaskan outdoors. - Rhein Lake Cabin – If you want to test out a cabin for a night or two, this is the one to book. It's a beautiful drive up to the cabin's front door. It overlooks Rhein Lake and there is a short trail to and around the lake. The loft will entertain kids of all ages and you'll appreciate the privacy it offers.
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Alaska State Parks Celebrates 50th Anniversary - Superintendent Jack Blackwell-
Originally published in issue 85 of SMOLTS, The Newsletter of the Cook Inlet Aquaculture Association, Spring/Summer 2020
This year the Alaska State Park system celebrates its' 50th anniversary. Kachemak Bay State Park is honored to claim the title of the first designated state park which was established on May 9, 1970. Later that year, Chugach State Park and Denali State Park were established by the Legislature followed by Kachemak Bay State Wilderness Park in 1972. Many have claimed that these first state parks would be worthy of national park status and we are fortunate to have these under state management.
Tutka Bay Neil Johannsen served as director of the Alaska Division of Parks from 1983 – 1995 and was instrumental in development of the new state park system in the last frontier. Johannsen would often say that the State's park system was "a system of dreams" and he is certainly right about that. Our state park system is the result of people passionate about our public lands and protecting them for future generations. In many cases, people were concerned that these important lands could be logged, mined, or developed. The state lands that have been withdrawn from the public domain and established as special purpose lands (state parks) would never have occurred without the support and desire of local residents and stakeholders concerned about these special places. In other words, people had dreams that became a reality.
The framework of the Alaska State Park system started before statehood. Baranof Castle State Historic Site in Sitka is home to the site where Alaska was purchased from Russia and transferred to the United States in 1867. The site was established as a territorial historic site and is now a state historic site.
In 1959, the Bureau of Land Management transferred 32 campgrounds and waysides to the recently created Alaska Department of Natural Resources. Many of these campgrounds are now popular state parks, such as Johnson Lake State Recreation Area near Kasilof. In 1966 the Legislature established Nancy Lake State Recreation Area and Chena River State Recreation Area the following year. While not officially designated as a State Park, the recreation areas were the first created by the Legislature. However, Kachemak Bay State Park still claims the title to Alaska's first State Park.
The Alaska Division of Parks was established in 1970 as a special division within DNR to oversee the state park system. In 1984, the division was renamed the Alaska Division of Parks and Outdoor Recreation to emphasize the importance of recreation in our state. Today the division's mission is to "provide outdoor recreation opportunities, and conserve and interpret natural, cultural, and historic resources for the use, enjoyment, and welfare of the people".
Eshamy Bay Alaska has an extensive system of protected marine waters and lands along the north Pacific Ocean. The Statehood Act allowed the new State of Alaska to select 400,000 acres of vacant and unappropriated national forest land for the State's development, including recreation purposes. Some of this land became the start of the State's marine park system. Through a public process, important bays, coves, and waterways in Resurrection Bay, Prince William Sound, and Southeast Alaska were selected and the first state marine parks were created in 1983. The new state marine parks became part of an international system of protected marine waters spanning from Washington state marine parks, to provincial marine parks in British Columbia, to our state marine parks in Southeast and Southcentral Alaska. Many of the state marine parks in Southcentral Alaska were expanded when the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill Trustee Council purchased land through their habitat acquisition program and became managed within the Alaska State Park system. Today, Kachemak Bay State Park and State Wilderness Park, Shuyak Island State Park, Afognak Island State Park, the state marine parks in Resurrection Bay, Prince William Sound, and Southeast Alaska offer world class marine recreation opportunities.
The Alaska State Park system is important to Alaskan residents and visitors. The system offers recreation and economic opportunities for Alaskans. Our park system has weathered economic crisis, natural disasters, and human caused disasters and we are currently faced with a global pandemic. During these times of uncertainty, we find that public lands are critical for our health and well-being by offering an escape and place for people to rejuvenate. This spring, visitation at many of our state parks is higher than ever.
The Kachemak Bay State Park and State Wilderness Park management plan is currently under revision. If things go as anticipated, the new management plan will be released later this year. Once the management plan is adopted, it will provide park managers with guidance for future development and for addressing issues.
This summer take time to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Alaska State Park system by visiting one of the 156 state parks in Alaska. Congratulations to Kachemak Bay State Park for being an important part of our community for 50 years. And thanks to those who have worked hard to create the park and take care of it.
Jack Blackwell
Superintendent
Jack Blackwell started working for the Alaska Division of Parks & Outdoor Recreation in 1985. He began his career with the Alaska State Park system working on a trail crew and was a ranger that worked in Southeast Alaska, the Kenai Peninsula, and Prince William Sound. He currently serves as the superintendent of the Kenai/PWS Region in Soldotna, AK.
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Rangers at work in the Northern Region - Chief Ranger Ian ThomasMay 2020
During the week of 5/11/20 the Ranger staff in the Northern Region were asked to assist the Alaska Wildlife Troopers in two separate search and rescue efforts that took place within days of each other near Fairbanks. One was on the Tanana River and the other on the Chena River.
The first was search was for Alfaz Khan who had disappeared in the Tanana River on the edge of town on Sunday 5/10/20. Khan had entered the river, swift and cold with spring runoff, to pursue his dog that had entered a large eddy that is popular with fishermen. His partner witnessed Khan enter the water after the dog which was able to swim back to shore. Khan was unable to do so and disappeared beneath the surface approximately 50 yards from shore. Several agencies participated in the initial search and were unable to locate Khan. On Monday morning the northern area Rangers responded to the Chena Pump Wayside and participated in the recovery effort using jet boats and various methods for recovering submerged individuals including sonar equipment furnished by the Department of Public Safety. This effort continued through the morning of 5/13/20 when the search was called off by the Alaska State Troopers.
Just as that effort was concluded, calls were being made to AST dispatch concerning another missing person within the Chena River State Recreation Area east of Fairbanks. A pair of Fairbanks residents had driven a jet boat up the east fork of the Chena River and while heading back down stream, the boat became pinned on a log jam which ejected both of the occupants.
The driver of the boat ended up on a log jam out of the water only to witness his partner, Christopher Hight, a Fairbanks resident, being swept downstream and out of sight. After being reported as overdue by family members, the boat driver had been rescued by the Alaska State Troopers using Helo 2 approximately 24 hours after the accident and the disappearance of Hight.
Rangers from the Northern Region responded to 44 mile of Chena Hot Springs Road along with Alaska State Troopers, Alaska Wildlife Troopers and volunteer rescue personnel. Rangers searched the area near the trapped boat along with the Alaska Wildlife Troopers for several hours that afternoon and evening in dangerous conditions with high water and debris present in the river. The search continued late into the night. Northern Region Rangers again responded to assist the next morning using jet boats to travel the river corridor where foot searches of the banks could be conducted.
The search came to an unfortunate end on the afternoon of 5/14/20 when the body of the Christopher Hight was discovered by Wilderness Search and Rescue personnel over a mile below where he was last seen. Rangers responded by jet boat and assisted in recovering Hight so he could be transported by helicopter to the road system. Rangers subsequently transported the individual to a funeral home at the request of family members.
Editor's note: Our deepest condolences to the friends and families of Alfaz Khan and Christopher Hight, and a BIG thanks to our ASP Rangers for the work they do.
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Seasonal Shift: Final Winter Adventures at Fielding Lake - Megan HenryApril 2020
Spring in Alaska is truly intoxicating. There is a sweet-spot of a time frame that exists, when the combination of snowy adventures mixed with a rapid increase in daylight hits just right! But often it seems like transitional seasons in Alaska are over in the blink of an eye, and before you know it, the spring groove that you had finally found yourself in is over. One spring weekend it's skiing and ice fishing, a week later it's time for hiking and kayaking!
The Fielding Lake Cabin and its nearby outhouse, situated at an elevation of 2,973 feet in the Alaska Range.
Last weekend I drove out to Fielding Lake with my boyfriend, Gus, and our little adventure dog, Penelope. We had reserved the public use cabin managed by the Alaska State Parks for Friday and Saturday night, and were looking forward to getting out of town into the Alaskan wilderness. With six feet of ice on the lake and the ground still covered in snow, it was the perfect place to celebrate one last "winter" outing.
Once we arrived at mile 200.5 of the Richardson Highway, we parked the truck and started unloading our gear. The public use cabin where we would be staying is located about a mile and a half from the parking area, and we had brought a snowmobile and sled to help transport our belongings.
As we arrived at the cabin, we were greeted by two moose who stood observing us from across a stream. Talk about an Alaskan welcoming party! They lingered for a while, watching us unpack our things and settle in a bit before they loped away, continuing to munch in the distance.
We were grateful to see that someone had left wood stacked on the cabin's porch, which we used to start a fire in the wood stove and warm up the cabin. We brought some extra wood inside to dry out overnight and continued unpacking until we turned in for the night. (With the luxury of the snowmachine and the sled, we maybe brought more stuff than we normally would!)
The next morning started slowly with breakfast, coffee, and some reading of Louis L'Amour's Sitka. Once we were done with breakfast, it was off to the lake! Gus loved the convenience of having the snowmachine to get all of the fishing gear to the lake, but Penelope and I preferred to take the slower route and she accompanied me as I cross country skied.
Although we had a slow day of fishing, we soaked up every minute of sun and enjoyed beautiful views as we ate a charcuterie picnic lunch on the lake. It was a lazy day of naps, writing, cribbage games, skiing, snowmachining, and despite social distancing we even managed to make some new friends!
Dinner by headlamp, how romantic! If you are interested in staying at Fielding Lake Cabin yourself, be prepared to bring your own water and be aware that there is no electricity, although the cabin appears to have the option of hooking up a generator. Reservations can be made on reserveamerica.com/.
Once we got back to the cabin that night, we got a little fire going in the wood stove and enjoyed an amazing dinner of moose burgers, thanks to Gus. Not only does he love to hunt, but he loves to cook as well! What a match made in heaven, and thankfully I get to think of myself as the official taste-tester!
The next morning started out similarly to the first, with sleeping in and a backpacker's mocha (Swiss Miss and Starbucks instant coffee for the win!). Thankfully it was a better day of fishing and we got to enjoy another day of beautiful Alaskan weather, surrounded by snowy mountains, before packing up and heading home. We loved our quiet, peaceful respite from everyday life that time at a public use cabin provides, and the drive was spectacular. We even saw some caribou on our way home!
It's hard to believe that this same time last week I was packing up my cross country skis for the last time. After a sunny, beautiful weekend it feels like summer has officially started. Don't get me wrong, I love Alaskan summer! But while I'm looking forward to the hiking and kayaking, I am also super grateful to have squeezed in one last weekend of winter adventures!
Megan Henry is an art teacher living in Anchorage, Alaska, who loves to travel and get outside. She writes a personal blog: https://elsewhereboundtravel.com/ about her experiences in her spare time.
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SNOWBOUND - Gail DavidsonApril 2020
As I left Fairbanks in mid-March for my Alaska State parks Artist-in-Residence at North Fork Cabin, Chena State Recreation Area (CRSRA), COVID-19 was just beginning to rear its ugly head. My Subaru was filled to the brim with wool for my rug hooking project, skis and my fat bike for playing on CRSRA trails, extra utensils for the friends who promised to visit, and my two canine companions.
Uncharacteristically, I put a bar of soap into my supplies for two weeks in the woods, along with extra food, since I never really know what I want, and a shovel for dog poop. With both excitement and a sigh of relief for my escape to self-quarantine, off I went to a favorite place at a favorite time of year. It was a good snow year in the Interior, promising great times on the trails in March.
For a couple of days, I gathered firewood and explored my nearby surroundings. At the Angel Creek trailhead, preparing to skijor at least as far as the lower cabin, I met a friend at a social distance who said that things were already heating up in town from the virus. Once again, I was grateful for the timing of my Residency. That night it started to snow.
It snowed. And snowed some more. Every day it snowed, often warm, wet snow, atypical for the Interior. I was grateful for my dog poop shovel, as the Parks-provided snow pusher was useless for real shoveling. My car was no longer going anywhere. It snowed some more, a day or two of drier snow. We managed to slog on skis as far as the road, and since one large truck had driven on it, we skijored straight down Chena Hot Springs Road. It snowed, and snowed, and snowed some more, trapping us there for 8 days total. I was safe, warm enough, and well fed, but when Ranger Dane finally came in on his snowmachine to check on me, I talked his ear off. I am very grateful to the State Parks family for worrying about me. I didn't know at the time that people were being asked not to go to the Rec Area because of all the snow and the impossibility of driving on or pulling off the road. Being out there is a wonderful thing, but being trapped required a different way of talking to myself. It also allowed a lot of rug hooking time, enough to complete my planned project plus an extra.
My daughter arranged for me to stay on an extra week, snowed in and protected from the virus. On my birthday, two friends snowshoed in, bringing cupcakes (thank you to my daughter!), which we shared on the porch, and extra dog food. Behind them, moving quite slowly, came a bobcat driven by the wonderful Alaska State Parks maintenance man!
Though it took several more days to liberate my car from its snow load, the dogs and I went out and skijored several more times on the road. There was no traffic, and there was nowhere to pull off; it took another week before trailheads were accessible. We saw a lot of 48-Mile Pond, as that is close by. One snowmachine track on the Winter Trail allowed us to ski to Angel Rocks trail and back, and during our several trips there, we saw a lot of very interesting—especially to the dogs— wolf signs which included tracks, fur, and yellow snow.
Leaving my cocoon at the cabin was bittersweet. I was ready to see people, though it has only worked virtually. A friend said that I would feel like I was emerging from a post-apocalyptic bomb shelter. How true that has been, as I've struggled to learn the rules of non-engagement. Living with the snow at the cabin with enough food and wool has many advantages.
The Latest/Greatest Public Use Cabin in the Northern Region
Compeau Cabin
For those wishing a quick getaway, the new Compeau Cabin in Chena River State Recreation Area might be the perfect fit. Constructed two miles up the Compeau Trail, the cabin is easy to get to yet far enough to deliver that real Alaskan experience. The cabin, located on a short spur trail, is nestled in a Birch Forest with southern exposure.
Getting there
The trailhead to the cabin is located at mile-29 Chena Hot Springs Road, 35 miles northeast of Fairbanks. This multi-use, state of the art trail is six feet wide with maximum grades of 10%. The trail is closed during spring break-up from April 20th through late May to all but foot traffic.
Trail Riding Opportunities
The trail beyond the Compeau Cabin follows a sustainable 16-mile alignment to the Colorado Creek Public Use Cabin. It also connects to the Mike Kelly Trail at mile 10, providing another 13 ½ miles of summer backcountry trail adventures. During the winter, outdoor enthusiasts have access to over 100 miles of trail from the cabin.
Construction
Funding for the cabin came from the Recreational Trails Grant Program, a federally funded program administered by the Division of Parks and Outdoor Recreation. The 14' x 16' cabin package was provided by Logging and Milling Associates out of Delta Junction www.loggingandmilling.com. Alaska Conservation Corps members and staff provided the muscle. The project took just under three months from log delivery, September 11th, 2019, to first cabin rental, December 6th, 2019.
Accommodations
The cabin sleeps a maximum of 6 people and features two bunkbeds. Furniture includes a table, several benches, and kitchen countertop. There's also a rack above the woodstove to dry clothes. Cabin renters will need sleeping bag, pad, food, cookware, dishes, utensils, cooking stove and fuel, matches, lighters, fire starter, 9-volt battery for smoke detector, first aid items, plastic trash bags, jug of water, saw or axe just in case, firewood, flashlight, and lantern.
Reservations
Are you ready for that real Alaskan experience? The cabin rents for $45 per night plus a $8 booking fee. For additional information and reservations visit www.alaskastateparks.org
Roger MacCampbell - Retired Chief Ranger at Kachemak Bay State Park-
Education in Park Management (A.S.) and Environmental Education and Interpretation (B.A.)
Ranger Roger MacCampbell "retired" in April of 2015 but, the truth is, he can't stop giving to Alaska State Parks. As a member of Friends of Kachemak Bay State Park, he is currently helping to coordinate 50th anniversary events commemorating the establishment of the park. Gregarious and humble at the same time, he always has a twinkle in his eye and a story to tell.
"Before joining Alaska State Parks in 1984, I worked as a seasonal employee with the National Park Service as an intern at Pinnacles National Monument and Yosemite for $5.00 a day. I worked weekends and summers to get through college and then winters and summers looking for a permanent Ranger job. I worked fire crew, fire lookout, Park naturalist (guided snowshoe hikes), ski patrolman and law enforcement ranger at 21. I eventually applied for a job with Alaska State Parks and started as a ranger in Ninilchik.
I worked with Chief Ranger Bill Garry, who as a park ranger in Yosemite had once surprise delivered a half case of beer via horse back to me where I was working as a back-country intern in Yosemite. I figured then and there that was a job for me, riding horseback and supplying beer! In 1985, I became chief ranger for the southern district of the Kenai Area, which included the state park units from Ninilchik to Kachemak Bay. Our district had three rangers, several Alaska Conservation Corps employees, and a handful of volunteers.
I wanted this job in part because I wanted to live in Homer. I stayed with Alaska State Parks because I soon realized that I had the opportunity to contribute in developing a fairly new Alaska State Park system. It truly felt like going to the minor leagues after playing in the major leagues for years. We drove old castoff Department of Transportation pickup trucks with orange paint interiors and "bubble gum" red lights, lousy "low band" radios and uniforms that we sewed our own patches on.
I worked and helped develop several policies—most of which have been expanded and improved upon since: uniform, law enforcement, Division boat operator credentialing and firearms. I was one of division's first field training officers and firearm instructors.
Working with our team to develop campgrounds, trails and other facilities was rewarding. But especially rewarding was co-authoring the rewrite of the Kachemak Bay State Park management plan and managing the Division's post-oil spill Marine Recreation Project grants that I had applied for. These grants afforded building many of the trails, a dock and cabins in KBSP and facilities in Anchor Point and Ninilchik. The major event during my tenure was the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill. This was definitely one of the most drawn-out and traumatic events for State Parks and for me, personally.
Also memorable was to witness the steadily increasing professionalism and quality of field staff within the Division; the number of young people that came from the U.S. and abroad to volunteer with Alaska State Parks, some who stayed and became contributing members of our communities and finally, the camaraderie and the friendships over the years, made and kept."
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2019
- Artists Gone Wild - by Sheryl Maree Reily
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Alaska offers unique opportunities for artists to engage in art residencies based in remote wilderness locations
I am experiencing a major case of color intoxication. I peer into tide pools as if they were a snow globe, and marvel at the combustion of hues. In my memory, I am gliding effortlessly on a magic tapestry of anemone, urchins, chiton, kelp, mollusks, with starfish carpeting the floor of the lagoon beneath the canvas deck of the kayak. Watching droplets slice silently from the blade of the paddle animating the scene below, I am reminded of antique mirrors and horror houses. Only this is not horrible, it's delicious.
I promised myself I would be back. Only next time I would load the film in the SLR correctly, come armed with the right tools - art supplies, uninterrupted time, and the space for thoughts. And yet, that day, as I looked into my tide pool gazing ball, I could not have predicted a future without film, or that it would be three decades before I would return to China Poot Lagoon in Kachemak Bay, Alaska.
Sounding like some exotic location from a Pearl S. Buck novel, China Poot, quixotically named after Henry Poot, an early Homerite who employed Chinese immigrants to work in his herring factory, the lagoon is neatly tucked into the coastline of Kachemak Bay, Alaska. As displaced as the words China Poot may sound in the Alaskan landscape, the lagoon itself is perfectly placed - beyond expectations, as is the entire Kachemak Bay State Park.
This past summer I was invited to return to the area as the Kachemak Bay State Park (KBSP) Artist-on-Residence (AIR). The agreement with the park was simple, I would spend a week alone at the ranger station in exchange for giving a public presentation and donating art. In my public presentation titled 'The Importance of Artist Residencies in Wilderness Spaces' I shared the mutual goal of these partnerships, to inspire future work which expands the reach of the park and contributes to the creative growth of the artist.
I arrived at Homer Spit, a four-mile finger of land which points directly across the water toward Kachemak Bay State Park, after driving my mobile art studio from Fairbanks through South Central Alaska and the Kenai Peninsula. I was to meet the park crew at the top of Ramp 4 at 8:30am for the boat ride to the ranger station. I know from personal experience if you miss the tide you miss the ride, so I was standing at the top of the dock EXTRA early in my EXTRATUFs ® when the skiff pulled in. (No self-respecting Alaskan would ever approach water without wearing a pair of the iconic rubber boots. They also work well for piles of bear scat and fish slime - more on that later).
The Kachemak Bay State Park artist residency program is situated in one of the most spectacular locations in the world. Viewed from Land's End at the tip of that finger I mentioned earlier, the more than 400,000 acres contained in the park will steal your breath away. This is nature's majesty on a grand scale, a place where glaciers cleave snow-capped mountains and plunge into the ocean flanked by lush green forest, a terrestrial goddess slipping into a salt bath. On a clear day it's hard to know where the sky ends and the sea begins, and the abundance of wildlife is staggering.
There were no means available for me to access China Poot by water so I decided to hike an unmaintained trail that climbs the ridge separating the ranger station from the lagoon. While hiking the two-mile stretch, wearing my XTRATUFs ®, flanked by devil's club and crops of prehistoric looking sulphur-shelf (a psychedelic orange colored 'shroom that attaches itself to conifers) I counted thirty-three piles of bear scat (poop). Admittedly it was not all steaming, but the insipid tinkle of bear bells did little to reassure me and I felt compelled to augment the soundscape by reciting nursery rhymes and Spanish verb conjugations using my loudest outdoor voice. I don't sing.
Sometimes small-scale shifts portend an avalanche of destruction. Beneath the liquid surface of Kachemak Bay things have changed in the past three decades. During the residency I did not see a single starfish. A disease called starfish wasting has dulled the waters of China Poot Lagoon. Little is known about the cause of this disease which has slowly crept north via the West Coast. There have been other changes, fewer mollusks, and most noticeable are rafts of sea otter, literally. At times gathered in groups of a hundred or more, floating in the bay like a roiling island of flesh, the exploding population of cute critters is shifting the ecology of the area.
My experience commercial fishing and living in remote areas prepared me for managing the off-the-grid systems at the Ranger station. But you don't have to be a 'Wilderness Woman' or 'Mountain Man' to enjoy the park. With a little planning it's all accessible, with common-sense it's doable. There are Public-Use Cabins and water taxis to deliver you to trail heads leading to all kinds of options - want to see a lake, a glacier, a mountain, forest, sealife, birds, large mammals, a jökulhlaup (probably not)? It's all there. Sound travels long distances over water in undeveloped landscapes. One of the sweetest moments for me came one evening while observing a family kayak around the bay, baby strapped securely to her mom's chest, singing 'Only You' by the Platters. It was the one-year anniversary of their daughter's first trip to the park and they had returned to celebrate her first birthday!
What exactly is an Artist-in-Residency program? At first blush it might sound like an all expenses paid vacation for the artist (if only), or a good way to decorate the home office, but an Artist-in-Residence program is a privilege for both the artist and the sponsoring institution.
From the artist's point of view the purpose of such programs is to provide uninterrupted time and the resources needed to reflect, research, experiment or produce art, away from the distractions of normal life. Each residency offers its' own unique set of opportunities and challenges for both the artist and agency. There are as many kinds of AIR programs as there are artists. I have encountered programs where an artist could sleep for three months and the institution wouldn't blink an eye - trusting if the artist needed this to recharge their creative batteries, the residency had fulfilled its' purpose! Other residencies will run an artist ragged with expectations and givebacks. Most often the artist and institution find a happy medium. Parks throughout the nation have a long history of working with artists and Alaska has embraced this relationship. Today's savvy resource managers know they must reach audiences beyond the walls of the visitor center. Breaking convention, they look for new ways to communicate the value of their charge, using innovative methods to capture the attention of the nation with new media and interventions. That's where I come in.
I am a conceptual artist. Chances are, if you find yourself asking whether a particular piece of artwork is art\ [or not] - it's more than likely conceptual art. The driving force behind my work is an idea and it is the idea that determines my choice of medium and materials, not a discipline. You might wonder why a park would want to form a partnership with an artist whose work is often temporary, seldom hung on a wall or sold in a gallery, who weaves plastic bags into a life size sarcophagus and strings fishing floats to form a fifty-foot rosary?
As an artist I have a unique platform for communicating ideas and the concerns of others. I can say a lot and never open my mouth. You can't fire, furlough or build a wall around me. For several years, I have participated in wilderness artist residencies as a means of un-tethering from the studio, connecting with the physical world, and obtaining access to remote areas, and oddly enough meeting people. Wilderness residencies have become an integral part of my creative practice and an essential resource and source of inspiration for a personal project title, the ReWilding project.
My primary concerns as an artist are human and environmental well-being. I believe the two are inseparable. Wilderness-based artist-in-residence opportunities mesh well with my interest in investigating humankind's complicated and often fraught relationship to wilderness. The ReWilding project is as much about our inner landscape as the outdoor environment, and the setting aside of public lands as parks and preserves, acknowledges both the intrinsic and extrinsic value of the landscape. It's a great partnership.
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Think Outside the Box for your Gift-giving this Year - by Wendy Sailors-
We are over half-way through 2019, but many employers are already planning end-of-season or end-of-the-year parties. Alaska State Parks annual passes are a great way to say "thank you" to your employees and volunteers while encouraging them to spend time outside and in our state parks.
Northrim Bank, an Alaskan-based company, is on mission to be Alaska's most trusted financial institution and they are committed to adding value for their customers, communities, and shareholders. In November 2018, they put their money where their mouth is and implemented a wellness program after a couple of years of discussion and planning, and the forming of a wellness committee of 12-15 employees.
The committee wanted to make the program and goals achievable for everyone. In this wellness program, they gave each employee a stipend to purchase a fitness tracker and asked everyone to have a goal of 5000 steps a day. Throughout the year, points can be earned for participating in events, mini-campaigns and pre-set "challenges" such as "food makeover" or recurring ones like stress management or eating fruits and vegetables.
In addition, Northrim offered their employees an Alaska State Park Day-use pass as part of their newly-implemented wellness program, and half of the approximately 440 employees took them up on that offer. James Beasley, the Electronic Banking Manager of Northrim's Electronic Banking Department, has been participating in the program since it began, and has become especially diligent about tracking his steps since the wellness program was implemented. By far, his favorite aspect of the program is the Alaska State Parks day-use decal because he usually purchased it on his own.
"Knowing that my employer cares to put resources behind something that they don't have to care about make a huge impact on my job satisfaction," said Beasley. "Also, they gave us sit-to-stand desks which I love. I sit half the day and stand the other half. The fact that Northrim is interested in and invested in my wellness where I am the one that will reap the benefits for next thirty years is something I really appreciate."
Each month that an employee meets a goal, a small stipend is added to their paycheck to put toward a fitness membership, exercise clothes, or equipment. With points earned, there are levels to achieve in order to win prizes such as AK Air miles, cash, or money toward a tracking device upgrade.
Employees at Northrim also have group fitness options which is a fun way to spend time with co-workers, build morale, and meet fitness goals as a group. In Anchorage and Fairbanks, Northrim partnered with F&H Fitness to set up different fitness classes for employees, and approximately 80 employees from those branches participated.
"We discussed the idea of the Alaska State Parks Day-use parking option as a benefit of the wellness program when we started this conversation a couple of years ago. We wanted to add an element of value for our current employees, to attract new employees, and to stand out as an employer," said Katie Bender, Community and Public Relations Manager.
Order 2020 Day-use parking passes for your employees for the holidays! Day-use passes are $50 per pass and are good for day-use parking at all state park units managed by Alaska State Parks for one calendar year. 2020 passes will go on sale in late October, and early bulk orders can get a special deal by contacting Wendy Sailors, Alaska State Parks Business Development Specialist, at wendy.sailors@alaska.gov or 907-269-8738.
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The Camphost - by Mariah Johnson-
Across the country by the thousands, these modern day nomads travel to work and live in our public lands. You find them in all states, in National Parks, National Forests, State, county and city Parks, BLM land, Wildlife Refuges, and National Monuments.
They have many jobs. They patrol campgrounds and trail heads, assisting visitors and collecting trash. They man entrance booths, clean, do light maintenance, sell firewood and parking passes. They provide information, and assist in emergency situations. They are the front-country eyes and ears of many park rangers who cannot be everywhere at once. They help ensure safety and order in campgrounds, trailheads and natural areas.
Mostly they are there for the lifestyle, to live in the beautiful natural lands of the US, taking the comforts of their own tiny homes with them. The vast majority of them are retired couples with much life experience, but they can be any age, young people, singles, traveling friends, middle aged, or families with young children. Their homes can be anything from the smallest teardrop trailer to a full sized motor coach. Some are summer nomads, others are full time RV. Many of them have no permanent residence or traditional home.
There are thousands of host positions across the country, seasonal in colder states and year round in warm ones. Some are in very remote desert, forest or mountain locations, others are closer to towns or beachfronts. Hosts live at the edge of wilderness, experiencing nature every day, and meeting people from across the country and around the world. It requires living creatively, simply, and without some traditional comforts. It means living with nature at your door step, sharing with others a love of the outdoors, and seeing new and exciting places. It's a lifestyle of freedom and adventure.
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